La Cordonnerie is a wonderful restaurant - our favorite restaurant in Paris and one of our very favorites anywhere. Chef Wolfer prepares high-quality, unfussy meals in a congenial setting that is as simple (in the most positive sense) as the food. If you can, reserve one of the tables next to the kitchen so you can watch him work and chat with him when he has a break.
I added this pearl to my notes a couple of years ago, after I asked Mr. Wolfer about what wine to have with an assiette de fromages after dinner: "White wine makes the cheese taste better, and cheese makes the red wine taste better."
